بازکاوی نقش هنر در گفتمان‌های معاصر زیست‌محیطی مطالعه موردی: دست‌بافته‌ها

Background: In the contemporary era, heightened attention to environmental issues stems from expanding civic awareness and a deepening sense of social responsibility across societies. Escalating ecological crises—ranging from climate change and biodiversity loss to pollution and the depletion of natural resources—have prompted critical reflection within various fields of knowledge, including the visual arts. In this context, many artists around the world have sought to respond to environmental concerns by rethinking materials, processes, and conceptual frameworks in their creative practices. Art, as a cultural and communicative medium, has increasingly become a site for ecological inquiry, ethical engagement, and public awareness.
Movements related to environmentalism signify a significant transformation in how human societies think about the relationship between economy, society, and nature (Kastler, 2003: 25). Environmental concern, as one aspect of social and cultural attitudes, is linked to the extent of individuals’ awareness of environmental problems and their efforts to address them (Khoozan Langeroudi, 2019: 15). One of the primary roles of art in societies is its ability to connect with audiences and convey complex messages in a visually and engaging manner, thereby raising social awareness about various issues. The performance of some artists, particularly after the advent of modernism, has demonstrated that the artist has played an active role in the important movements and developments of the modern era and has been influential in shaping people’s minds and even advancing various goals (Kalini, 2010: 41). Art, in relation to the issue of the environment, has been presented in two main poles: Romanticist thought (a return to nature) and critical thought (criticism of environmental destruction) (Taghizadegan, 2021: 137). In recent decades, environmental crises have elevated art from mere inspiration to a social, educational, and critical tool. Environmental artists have used this tool to protest policies and behaviors that lead to environmental degradation. Artistic works that address deforestation, air and water pollution, and species extinction have not only helped raise public awareness but have also served as a means of pressuring governments and international organizations to adopt sustainable policies and protect the environment (Omidi, 2010: 32).
Many artists have succeeded in addressing environmental issues through their art and making a broad impact on society, drawing global attention to environmental problems and crises. Various materials and techniques have assisted artists in achieving this goal, depending on their capabilities and potential. Among these, emerging and influential currents such as ecofeminism also use metaphors and symbols like "weaving" to express social, cultural, and ecological connections (Horton, 2024: 115). From this perspective, in conceptual art approaches, weaving acts as a "language of the body" or a "language of the land," enabling the artist to integrate personal and collective experiences with the environment. This concept goes beyond simple visual patterns, showcasing a dynamic interaction with natural elements such as plants, soil, and water. The representation of natural and biological elements in woven pieces is not only an aesthetic manifestation of the environment but also carries complex dimensions of environmental memory and the environmental experiences of human societies. In eco-art, handwoven artifacts often appear as indigenous art that links traditional knowledge with ecological issues and can serve as a medium for recording and transmitting signs of biodiversity, landscape characteristics, and ecological changes, thereby documenting traces of erosion, destruction, or ecosystem continuity. From this perspective, these works are not merely cultural artifacts but "sensory archives" of the environment that transmit sensory experiences and environmental memories to future generations through form, texture, and visual patterns. Such representations allow for the analysis of human-environment interaction over time and demonstrate the capacity of traditional art to preserve and transmit environmental and cultural knowledge.
Methods: This research, employing a qualitative and interpretive approach, aims to analyze the reflection of environmental issues in woven textiles. Data were collected through document study, library resources, theoretical texts related to weaving art, environmental aesthetics, ecological crises, and the examination of images, websites, catalogs, and artworks by artists. The selection of artworks was purposeful, based on the presence of environmental concepts, the use of bio-based materials, attention to environmental cycles, and the capacity of the works to represent environmental themes. Data analysis was conducted using “qualitative visual content analysis,” encompassing two levels: formal description and environmental-conceptual interpretation. This allows the artworks to be examined not only from an aesthetic perspective but also as reflections of climate change, land degradation, consumerism, and environmental footprints.
Results: In recent years, numerous initiatives have been undertaken worldwide to integrate environmental concepts with handwoven textiles and traditional arts, aiming to raise awareness, conserve nature, and redefine the role of handicrafts in the contemporary world. Inspired by issues such as climate change, water crises, biodiversity conservation, and respect for the Earth, many activists have created designs and color palettes based on traditional patterns to convey environmental messages through the language of art. The conscious use of recycled fibers alongside natural materials, the revival of plant-based dyes, and the reduction of waste in the production process are among the actions that have practically incorporated sustainability concepts into woven works. Furthermore, the organization of exhibitions, festivals, and joint art projects between indigenous weavers, contemporary designers, and environmental activists has transformed handwoven textiles into a cultural medium for dialogue about nature conservation. This integration has not only helped preserve ethnic identities but has also turned traditional art into an effective tool for promoting environmental thinking and sustainable development.
Findings indicate that in many regions, ethnic handwoven pieces are based on human coexistence with nature and, therefore, have a deep and meaningful connection to environmental conservation. Handwoven pieces such as Ghabeh, Kilim, and Persian and Central Asian carpets, Ikat in India and Indonesia, and traditional silk weaving in China and Thailand are examples of indigenous production that is compatible with nature. Latin American indigenous textiles, such as Andean fabrics in Peru and Bolivia, are made using llama and alpaca wool and plant-based dyes and feature patterns inspired by mountains and natural elements. In Africa, fabrics such as Kente in Ghana and Bogolan in Mali are made with natural fibers and colors derived from soil and plants, causing minimal harm to the environment. Furthermore, in Europe and Oceania, traditional textiles of the Sami people in Scandinavia and Tapa cloths in Polynesia demonstrate that the use of natural materials, limited production, and inspiration from nature have long been an integral part of indigenous cultures, making these traditional arts valuable examples of sustainable and environmentally friendly patterns.
Conclusion: In the handwoven pieces of the Navajo tribe, natural and biological elements are not only visual patterns but also symbolize the relationships between women, the land, and cultural patterns. These fabrics, using biological materials such as sheep's wool and plant-based dyes, represent biodiversity and landscape characteristics and serve as a tool for preserving generational knowledge against ecological erosion and colonization. Consequently, weaving, beyond being an artistic technique, acts as a powerful medium for expressing environmental concerns, preserving traditional knowledge, and promoting sustainable patterns. This research demonstrates that handwoven pieces can be used as a tool to raise awareness, create change, and promote a more sustainable lifestyle.